Go Fast Bits

Product Details: GFB's pulleys are manufactured on the latest Multi-Axis CNC machines from the highest grade 6061-T6 aluminium billet, making them immensely lighter than their factory steel counterparts. This lower weight yields a large reuction in the rotating inertia of the belt train, allowing the engine to accelerate faster. The effect is similar to fitting a lightened flywheel and is particularly noticeable in the lower RPM range before the turbo spools up. This is because the power required to accelerate a heavy pulley accounts for a much greater proportion of the available power at low RPM.

Fits:

Subaru Forester GT (MY98 - 00)
-2001 and 2201 kits include the required shorter belts. 2009 is the same diameter as factory and therefore uses the original belts.

Subaru Forester GT (MY01 - 02)
-2001 and 2201 kits include the required shorter belts. 2009 is the same diameter as factory and therefore uses the original belts.

Subaru Forester XT (MY03 - 04)
-2001 and 2201 kits include the required shorter belts. 2009 is the same diameter as factory and therefore uses the original belts.

Subaru Forester XT (MY05 onwards)
-2001 and 2201 kits include the required shorter belts. 2009 is the same diameter as factory and therefore uses the original belts.

Subaru Liberty/Legacy GT (MY03 onwards)
-2001, 2201 and 2010 kits include the required shorter belts. 2009 is the same diameter as factory and therefore uses the original belts.

*No picture available at this time*

Product Details: GFB puts the key to boost control in YOUR hands!

All turbocharged vehicles utilize some form of factory boost control, most of which display a tendency to be conservative in allowing the boost to build up, and then taper away noticeably toward redline. A GFB Boost Controller however, not only allows quick and easy boost level adjustment, but it can also reduce the boost threshold (the RPM at which boost starts to rise) and maintain a rock-steady upper limit.

Fits:

Ford Laser TX3 Turbo 4WD KE - KHII (1987 – 1993)
-The TX3, like many turbo cars, is limited in the boost that it can safely use by the efficiency of its intercooler and turbo compressor and the capability of its fuel supply system. Boost can be increased to the limit of the turbo's efficiency, for a good power increase, provided that intake air temperatures are kept close to ambient and enough fuel is available. Boost increases should always be made carefully, with the aid of an accurate boost gauge.

Ford Telstar TX5 Turbo AS - AV (1986 – 1991)
-The TX5, like many turbo cars, is limited in the boost that it can safely use by the efficiency of its intercooler and turbo compressor and the capability of its fuel supply system. Boost can be increased to the limit of the turbo's efficiency, for a good power increase, provided that intake air temperatures are kept close to ambient and enough fuel is available. For smaller turbos, like the one used on the TX5, better results are often had by increasing boost just a couple of psi, rather than pushing it too high and taking the turbo out of its efficency range.

Holden VL Commodore Turbo (1986 - 1988)
-The VL Turbo uses a screw-in factory pop-off valve on the inlet manifold, which is nothing more than a spring-loaded overboost protection device. Typically these leak significantly, and should definitely be removed and plugged if you intend to raise the boost level.

Mazda 626 and MX-6 Turbo (1986 - 1991)
-The Mazda 626 and MX-6, like many turbo cars, are limited in the boost that they can safely use by the efficiency of their intercoolers and turbo compressors and the capability of their fuel supply system. Boost can be increased to the limit of the turbo's efficiency, for a good power increase, provided that intake air temperatures are kept close to ambient and enough fuel is available. For smaller turbos, like the one used on the 626 and MX-6, better results are often had by increasing boost just a couple of psi, rather than pushing it too high and taking the turbo out of its efficiency range.

Mazda RX-7 S4 & 5 (1986 – 1991)
-The main factor limiting the maximum safe boost level of a 13B turbo are the standard 2 mm three-piece apex seals. Factory boost is 6.2 psi for a series 4 RX-7, and 8.2 psi for a series 5. The reliable limit of these engines is 10 - 12 psi. If the engine is rebuilt and fitted with more durable 3 mm two-piece apex seals, then the engine will safely handle a higher boost level, although at above 14 - 15 psi, the factory turbo becomes inefficient and those seeking more power should install a high flow or larger aftermarket turbo.

Mitsubishi Starion Turbo JA - JD (1982 - 1987)
-GFB recommend that an intercooler is fitted to JA - JB Starions before attempting significant boost increases. Without one, the boost could probably be increased 1 or 2 psi fairly safely, but adding an octane booster to each tank of fuel would be a good measure against engine damaging detonation. Intercooled JD Starions could probably tolerate 2 or 3 extra psi using high octane (98 RON) unleaded fuel.

Mitsubishi Cordia GSR Turbo AA - AC (1984 – 89)

Mitsubishi CC Lancer GSR (1992 - 1996)

Mitsubishi Lancer EVO

Mitsubishi Galant VR-4 (1990 - 1993)

Nissan 200SX SR20DET S14 – 15 (1994 – 2003)
-The 200SX typically responds well to a modest boost increase, but the small factory intercooler poses the first restriction in the quest for power, being unable to scrub sufficient heat from the intake charge to ward off detonation at higher boost levels.

Nissan S13 Silvia & 180SX CA18DET

Nissan S13 Silvia & 180SX SR20DET

Nissan Skyline GTS-t R32
-Skylines typically respond well to a modest boost increase, but the small factory intercooler poses the first restriction in the quest for power, being unable to scrub sufficient heat from the intake charge to ward off detonation at higher boost levels.

Nissan Skyline GTS-t R33 and GT-T R34

Nissan Skyline GT-R R32 (1989 – 1993)

Nissan Pulsar GTi-R N14 (1990 – 1994)

N12 Pulsar ET (1984 – 1987)

Nissan Z32 300ZX Twin-turbo

Subaru WRX MY94-96
-The factory ECU cuts fuel if it senses boost exceeding 16-16.5psi (1.08-1.12 bar) for more than about half a second. It is common for these cars to easily handle boost increases up to this level. Beyond this, the fuel cut can be lifted or removed, but the small factory intercooler will limit the amount of boost you can run through it.

MY97-98 WRX and Version 3-4 STi
-On the WRX model the factory ECU cuts fuel if it senses boost exceeding 16-16.5psi (1.08-1.12 bar) for more than about half a second. It is common for these cars to easily handle boost increases up to this level. Beyond this, the fuel cut can be lifted or removed, but the smaller factory turbo will start to run out of puff beyond 15psi, particularly at high RPM. It is common to see these models drop back to about 12-13psi by redline, even if peak boost is set above 16psi.

MY99-00 WRX and Version 5-6 STi
-On the WRX model the factory ECU cuts fuel if it senses boost exceeding 16-16.5psi (1.08-1.12 bar) for more than about half a second. It is common for these cars to easily handle boost increases up to this level. Beyond this, the fuel cut can be lifted or removed, but the smaller factory turbo will start to run out of puff beyond 15psi, particularly at high RPM. It is common to see these models drop back to about 12-13psi by redline, even if peak boost is set above 16psi.

MY01-02 (MY02-03 in the U.S.) WRX and STi ("bugeye")
-On the WRX the factory ECU cuts fuel if it senses boost exceeding 18psi (1.22 bar) for more than about half a second. Boost can be quite safely increased by a modest margin, and this model shows the biggest improvements, thanks to a lethargic factory boost curve. Very good low and midrange gains can be had by the installation of a boost controller.
-The smaller factory turbo will start to run out of puff beyond 16psi, particularly at high RPM. It is common to see these models drop back to about 12-13psi by redline, even if peak boost is set above 16psi.
-A word of warning on this model, there is a catalytic converter placed before the turbo in the up-pipe, and it has been known to fail with increased power levels (Subaru deleted this cat on the MY03 model). There is also an exhaust sensor in the same position, which can sometimes trigger the check engine light with increased power levels. There are a number of companies making replacement cat-less up-pipes for these models, which is worth looking into if you plan to modify your car significantly.

MY03-current (MY04-current in the U.S.) WRX and STi
-On the WRX model the factory ECU cuts fuel if it senses boost exceeding 18psi (1.22 bar) for more than about half a second. Boost can be quite safely increased by a modest margin, but keep in mind with the higher compression ratio of this model, large increases should not be made without proper modifications. This model uses a smaller capacity fuel pump and injectors than previous models, so the safety headroom is reduced.

Subaru Forester GT (MY98 - 00)

Subaru Forester GT (MY01 - 02)

Subaru Forester XT (MY03 - 04)

Subaru Forester XT (MY05 onwards)

Subaru Liberty/Legacy GT (MY03 onwards)

Toyota Celica GT4 ST205 (1994 – 1995)

Toyota Soarer JZZ30 Twin Turbo 1JZGTE

Toyota Supra JZA80 2JZGTE

Additional Notes:

*Boost increases should always be made carefully, with the aid of an accurate boost gauge*

*Recommend having large boost increases performed on a dyno by an expert*

Product Details:

Part #2100: Belt kit to fit pulley kits: 2002, 2003 and 2010. 4PK 850 Belt

Part #2101: Belt kit to fit pulley kits: 2000, 2001 and 2200. 5PK 836 Belt

Includes: both kits include 2 belts

Product Details: One of the loudest valves available from GFB, the Mach 1 will ensure you're heard before you're seen! Featuring a single trumpet discharge outlet, this is a great replacement for cheap factory valves and can help to reduce turbo lag and increase throttle response while blasting out a great WHOOOSH noise between gears.

Fits:

Ford XR6 Turbo (BA Model)
-NOTE: GFB Valve is to be installed in the reverse direction when compared to the factory valve.
Ford TX3 Turbo, All Models
-5020
Ford TX5 Turbo, All Models
-Welding required
Holden Commodore VL Turbo, All Models
-Welding required
Mazda 626 and MX-6 Turbo, All Models
-Welding required
Mazda RX7, Series 4/5 Models
-5020
Mitsubishi Starion, All Models
-Welding required
Mitsubishi Cordia Turbo, All Models
-Welding required
Mitsubishi Lancer GSR and EVO, All Models
-None required for 1001-5
-Straight swap for the factory valve when used with the recommended adaptors, no modifications necessary, unless stated, all other valves only require small modifications such as hose cutting or a replacement hose.
Mitsubishi Galant VR4, All Models
-5102 for 1001-5
-Straight swap for the factory valve when used with the recommended adaptors, no modifications necessary, unless stated, all other valves only require small modifications such as hose cutting or a replacement hose.
Nissan 200SX S14-15
-None for 1001
Nissan Silvia S13
-None required for 1001-5
-Straight swap for the factory valve when used with the recommended adaptors, no modifications necessary, unless stated, all other valves only require small modifications such as hose cutting or a replacement hose.
Nissan 180SX (CAI8DET)
-Welding required
Nissan Skyline GTS-T, R32
-5102
-Straight swap for the factory valve when used with the recommended adaptors, no modifications necessary, unless stated, all other valves only require small modifications such as hose cutting or a replacement hose.
Nissan Skyline GTR/GTS-T, R33-34 Model
-5103 for 1001/4/5
-NOTE: Some GTS-T models may be sensitive to full atmosphere venting valves. In such cases the 1003 or 1011 is recommended.
-Straight swap for the factory valve when used with the recommended adaptors, no modifications necessary, unless stated, all other valves only require small modifications such as hose cutting or a replacement hose.
Nissan Pulsar GTi-R, All Models
-None for 1001-5
-Note: All valves for this car must use 1002 spring!
-Straight swap for the factory valve when used with the recommended adaptors, no modifications necessary, unless stated, all other valves only require small modifications such as hose cutting or a replacement hose.
Nissan 300ZX, All Models
-None required for 1001-5
-Straight swap for the factory valve when used with the recommended adaptors, no modifications necessary, unless stated, all other valves only require small modifications such as hose cutting or a replacement hose.
Subaru Impreza WRX & STI, MY94-96
-For 1001/4/5, 5020.
Subaru Impreza WRX & STI, MY97-98
-None for 1001-5
-Straight swap for the factory valve when used with the recommended adaptors, no modifications necessary, unless stated, all other valves only require small modifications such as hose cutting or a replacement hose.
Subaru Impreza WRX & STI, MY99-00
-5101
Subaru Forester GT, MY99-02
-5101
Toyota Celica GT4, ST205
-None for 1001-5
Toyota Supra (2JZ GTE)
-Custom installation with additional hoses
Toyota Soarer (IJZ GTE), All Models
-5105 and 5030 for 1001-5
-Straight swap for the factory valve when used with the recommended adaptors, no modifications necessary, unless stated, all other valves only require small modifications such as hose cutting or a replacement hose.